What Tools Are Needed To Remove Atlas Clutch Hub?

Greetings,

I just bought a 1967 Atlas that has been in dry storage for about 10 years. This is my first Atlas. I have owned and worked on my Norton Commandos since the late 1970s. I have most of the service tools needed to rebuild commandos. But nothing for the Atlas.

My first project was to “unstick” the clutch plates. This seemingly simple task exposed 2 other issues.

The 1st issue was one of the 3 studs were stripped. I ordered a replacement stud and the associated threaded adjuster nut. Of course after placing the order I read the associated nut also should be replaced. Another shipping charge!

The 2nd issue was a terribly worn clutch hub. I located and purchased a NOS clutch hub on EBay,

Before I attempt to replace the hub I would like to acquire all the needed tools. Besides the hub extractor tool, what else do I need? Do I need a special socket to remove the nut securing the hub?

Any advice and insight before I start this task will be greatly appreciated.

Stuck; The tools I use for clutch work: 13/16 in. thin wall socket to reach the nut, a MCA p/n P162 to pull basket free if needed. I believe RGM Motors caries them and on ebay now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/386941370951. Replacing the cush rubbers is the hardest part of an overhaul. The exhaust nut wrench sometimes works if the tip is sharp enough. I put three old drive plates together with a long handle after enough scuffed knuckels. Silicone spray helps. I use blue loctite on the four nuts.

The AMC clutch has three spring studs and nuts.

I found Chris Johnson's home-made tool in #53 brilliant !


It will be so much easier assembling the cush hub at the workbench. I hope you intend to replace cush rubbers too?

AN sell a very useful rubber compressor tool, "CLUTCH LOCK TOOL/ RUBBER COMPRESSOR", part-no: 06-7227. As NNN points out, you can build a similar tool yourself by using pre-63 clutch steel plates (friction and steel plates were inverted compared with the post-62 clutch layout).

Replacing clutch springs is probably a good idea. After 60 years under compression they will likely exhibit setting (creep).

Another useful tool is the "CLUTCH SPRING NUT ADJUSTER TOOL", part-no: 13.1765 .

If your clutch hub was worn, your chainwheel might be too. Scuffed edges at the slots will make the clutch harder to operate.

Your steel plates may show deformed tangs and warping. Deformed tangs should be dressed, but warped plates need to be replaced. Steel plates shall be of the dimpled type as per workshop manual.

A special socket for the clutch center nut is available with AN, part no. KD.MSW207. In case you are not using an impact gun, you need the clutch lock tool and probably a helping hand to release the nut.

Consider replacing the clutch center nut by DynoDave's special nut w/clutch rod seal. http://atlanticgreen.com/ddacrs.htm

- Knut

In theory the drum should just slide off. wear and distorsion of the spider may make a threaded puller essential though. Consider using 1 thou oversize rollers to reduce drum wobble and clutch drag.