New member questions.

FL54

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Joined
May 2026
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15
New member with several questions.
I recently purchased a 1971 Norton Commando non running project that hasn’t run since 2003. While not a stranger to vintage bikes (I have a couple of Triumphs) this is my first Norton. I did the normal fluid changes and was able to get the bike running. The deeper I get into it, the more I find is either deteriorated or missing.
I know that I need new tires. There is a 3.50 19 on the front and a 4.00 19 on the rear. The Dunlop site recommends 4.10 19 front and rear K81. Is this correct/ advisable?
Also need a new drive chain. Recommendations as to replacement and number of links?
The horn doesn't work. What an ordeal removing that. I had to remove the oil tank and battery tray to access. What was the designer thinking? I couldn’t find a horn relay on the bike but the wiring diagram shows one. I’ve ordered a new horn but is the relay necessary? I didn’t mind removing the oil tank as I had planned flushing it out and replacing all the oil lines.
Speedometer doesn't work and has cracked lens. Any recommendations for repairs in the U.S?
Sorry for the lengthy post and thanks in advance for any guidance.
 
There is a 3.50 19 on the front and a 4.00 19 on the rear. The Dunlop site recommends 4.10 19 front and rear K81. Is this correct/ advisable?
For 1971-on 4.10 front and rear were specified.
Also need a new drive chain. Recommendations as to replacement and number of links?

Number of links will depend on the sprockets fitted (front).

What an ordeal removing that. I had to remove the oil tank and battery tray to access. What was the designer thinking?

Yes the joke is the horn was placed on the production line and the bike was built around it.

I couldn’t find a horn relay on the bike but the wiring diagram shows one.

I don't know which wiring diagram you have been looking at but there's no horn relay although it's often a good idea to fit one.

The only relays shown on the wiring diagram are for the Interpol alternating horns "Alternating horns circuit".
 
Welcome (no name given),

There is a 3.50 19 on the front and a 4.00 19 on the rear. The Dunlop site recommends 4.10 19 front and rear K81. Is this correct/ advisable?
A: there will likely be between 3 and 7 different answers, but yes, those will work fine. Everyone has their own preferences, mine is Avon Roadriders in 90 aspect front, 110 rear.

Also need a new drive chain. Recommendations as to replacement and number of links?
A: 5/8 x 3/8 100 links. I usually buy a longer chain in case of sprocket replacement.

The horn doesn't work. What an ordeal removing that. I had to remove the oil tank and battery tray to access. What was the designer thinking?
A: hee hee the age-old joke goes: How do you build a Commando? - Bolt the horn to the battery tray and install in the frame FIRST.


I couldn’t find a horn relay on the bike but the wiring diagram shows one. I’ve ordered a new horn but is the relay necessary?
A: not "necessary" but not using one could destroy your horn button internals over time.

Speedometer doesn't work and has cracked lens. Any recommendations for repairs in the U.S?
A: I always used Joel Levine near Atlanta, but I believe he retired.
 
Welcome aboard the Norton Train!
I managed to get at the horn on my 74 850 by removing the rear wheel and mudguard. I replaced it with a Fiamm Freeway Blaster high note in the stock location and it is super loud even suv driving latte sipping types seem to respond to it. Once ihad the old horn off it sat in a box awaiting restoration until one day put a 13v battery to it and it worked fine. Issue was a poor battery on the bike when I first acquired it, so good toconfirm this and all connections before pulling off various bits.
Be sure to get workshop manual for your bike model/year...free to download in the technical section of this site. I also find the riders booklet helpful for basics like switch gear layouts and where to locate all the greasing points...note, the swingarm zerk fitting is for OIL, not grease...besure to confirm if a previous caretaker has put grease in swingarm...if so you will need to r&r the oillite bushings within.
 
Just a thought as to what might come up in the future.
It is likely that the rubber oils seals are rock hard.

The crankshaft seal on left side of engine stops engine oil going into the primary crankcase.
On the right side, there is a seal in the timing cover that seals where the distributor rotor pokes through.
Also in the timing cover is the oil pump output seal and the right side crankshaft seal.
The gearbox output seal is on the left side of gearbox and accessing it means the primary chain case has to come off.

Dennis
 
Thanks everyone for helpful replies. They will point me in the right direction. I’m sure that I’ll have more questions as I dig deeper into this project. I enjoy a winter project but this popped up and I couldn’t help myself. Thanks again.
 
I think you can save money and not send out the speedo.
1) Check the speedo drive cable to see if it has broken.
2) The speedo is really easy to fix if the glass broken. You can buy new glass and chrome bezel and install yourself. I recently did both my speedo and tach as the glass was not broken, but hazy on underside as it was as installed in 1973. While bezel and glass are off, it is easy to lubricate by letting some oil drip into important parts by gravity. And not taking off the speedo needle

If you decide to go this route, private message me and I will tell you how to do it.

Dennis
 
New member with several questions.
I recently purchased a 1971 Norton Commando non running project that hasn’t run since 2003. While not a stranger to vintage bikes (I have a couple of Triumphs) this is my first Norton. I did the normal fluid changes and was able to get the bike running. The deeper I get into it, the more I find is either deteriorated or missing.
I know that I need new tires. There is a 3.50 19 on the front and a 4.00 19 on the rear. The Dunlop site recommends 4.10 19 front and rear K81. Is this correct/ advisable?
Also need a new drive chain. Recommendations as to replacement and number of links?
The horn doesn't work. What an ordeal removing that. I had to remove the oil tank and battery tray to access. What was the designer thinking? I couldn’t find a horn relay on the bike but the wiring diagram shows one. I’ve ordered a new horn but is the relay necessary? I didn’t mind removing the oil tank as I had planned flushing it out and replacing all the oil lines.
Speedometer doesn't work and has cracked lens. Any recommendations for repairs in the U.S?
Sorry for the lengthy post and thanks in advance for any guidance.
If you become a VIP member you can add some pics directly.
 
Thanks Dennis for your kind offer. The cable is OK. I spun it with a drill. I assume the drive works. It’s a little stiff with old grease but it’ll clean up. I’ll take you up in the future but at this point I’ve got bigger fish to fry. Rear brake buffers were toast but have those ordered. Linings look OK. Once I get the rear sorted, I’ll tackle the front end. Don’t know what I’ll find there. Thanks again for everyone’s advice.
 
Thanks Dennis for your kind offer. The cable is OK. I spun it with a drill. I assume the drive works. It’s a little stiff with old grease but it’ll clean up. I’ll take you up in the future but at this point I’ve got bigger fish to fry. Rear brake buffers were toast but have those ordered. Linings look OK. Once I get the rear sorted, I’ll tackle the front end. Don’t know what I’ll find there. Thanks again for everyone’s advice.
The search function will yield a lot of valuable information.
 
After rereading the replies, another question comes to mind. How does one oil the swing arm? It has one of those British Zerk fittings.
 
After rereading the replies, another question comes to mind. How does one oil the swing arm? It has one of those British Zerk fittings.
As i mentioned earlier...only oil into SA via the zerk...i use a hand push type pump like this:

New member questions.



As alternative, remove the screw in zerk and feed in oil with a large bore syringe. But you must first confirm if previous caretaker has used grease in error and if so replace the bushes wntirely as they aren ow clogged and will not let oil soak thrpugh to the spindle.
 
When you do inject oil into the swinger, it will probably all slowly drip out from each side of swinger for a month or two.
But the important thing is that oil will remain inside and do its job.
If bike doesn't drip any oil now, it will likely soon!
The other source of oil on garage floor is the primary chain case cover. It has one bolt and heat does distort
it. You might seal it, fill primary with oil and no leaks while cold. But then you come back from a ride and
next morning some drips.
Later Commando model recognized this and went to multiple screws on the periphery.
 
Thanks everyone for helpful replies. They will point me in the right direction. I’m sure that I’ll have more questions as I dig deeper into this project. I enjoy a winter project but this popped up and I couldn’t help myself. Thanks again.
FL,
Where are you located?
This forum is a great place for correct advice
Get the manuals as suggested above and enjoy your project.
Mike
 
Thanks Mike. I’m in Bend, Oregon. I will get the manuals. The PO gave me a Haynes manual but I prefer factory service manuals. I hear Haynes manuals make good doorstops.
Barry
 
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