An Introduction from a new owner

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With a freshly painted frame be careful to ensure all the earth connections make contact to the metal without the paint in between, you'll need to sand it back in places to make good contact, enjoy the rebuild, keep us all posted on progress
 
G-Force said:
With a freshly painted frame be careful to ensure all the earth connections make contact to the metal without the paint in between, you'll need to sand it back in places to make good contact, enjoy the rebuild, keep us all posted on progress
Click to expand...



I have been considering that. I read a very good article on this issue and am very likely going to try and make a Single Point Ground setup. I have a brand new main harness and a brand new headlight harness I picked up from Fairspares and this article http://www.gabma.us/elec/proper_grounding.pdf covers the topic quite well.

I'd be very interested in hearing from anyone that has already done this modification as to where they selected the ground point. In the aviation world we usually polish a point where a stud will mount, and then stack the "grounds" on top of each other.

Something similar to the method "F" in the picture at this link. I can't seem to get the picture to post.


http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c275/ ... ethods.jpg
 
I hope you remembered to paint youre Helmet so its a matching colour , at the same time . :P :x :D . Do you call that ' Jade ' ? .

Indeed , a foam packer under the oil tank to sit it so the top mounts are aligned unloaded , is the trick .
High desity something ( a Jandle ) with a hole for the lower bolt lug . maybe a pin into a grommet in the tray , there ? .

Once its all hardened , youll be able to wax & buff it out . :lol: :lol: :twisted: :|
 
I picked the upper front fender bolt to stack on the various red -earth terminal rings. Its behind the bat tray, robust supported, easy enough access and about as out of sight as it gets. I ran a big gauge earth from the headlight back to the fender stud and tapped as many things into that with screw on/off connectors as I could, with 6 relays and 4 fuses excessessiveness. Weakness link then litterally becomes the fuse but I'd avoid the fragile glass kind, of which the glass is by far its best and strongest and least failing feature. Electrical routing and containing can be meditative art.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/w ... esstie.pdf
http://www.dairiki.org/hammond/cable-lacing-howto/
An Introduction from a new owner
 
Matt Spencer said:
I hope you remembered to paint youre Helmet so its a matching colour , at the same time . :P :x :D . Do you call that ' Jade ' ? .

Indeed , a foam packer under the oil tank to sit it so the top mounts are aligned unloaded , is the trick .
High desity something ( a Jandle ) with a hole for the lower bolt lug . maybe a pin into a grommet in the tray , there ? .

Once its all hardened , youll be able to wax & buff it out . :lol: :lol: :twisted: :|
Click to expand...


Frame is Jaguar British Racing Green, Tank/Side Panels are Jaguar BRG Metallic.

Haven't thought about the helmet yet...Maybe combi of BRG and BRG Metallic? Green background with Union Jack in Metallic or vice-versa?

I'd like to make this a rider, but also think of it as mechanical art.

I'm going to disassemble tomorrow and work on the oil tank setup some more...see if I can tweak a little so that it rests on hardened foam. When I figure it out I'll post it here.

Thanks for the input
 
hobot said:
I picked the upper front fender bolt to stack on the various red -earth terminal rings. Its behind the bat tray, robust supported, easy enough access and about as out of sight as it gets. I ran a big gauge earth from the headlight back to the fender stud and tapped as many things into that with screw on/off connectors as I could, with 6 relays and 4 fuses excessessiveness. Weakness link then litterally becomes the fuse but I'd avoid the fragile glass kind, of which the glass is by far its best and strongest and least failing feature. Electrical routing and containing can be meditative art.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/w ... esstie.pdf
http://www.dairiki.org/hammond/cable-lacing-howto/
An Introduction from a new owner
Click to expand...


Thanks for the input. I imagine it'll be a few days before I can get to it. I'm still working on the structure issues. This bike has had multiple owners and multiple modifications over time.

You're right about meditative art...

I have a saying also...Time spent in reconnaissance is seldom wasted.

What gauge wire did you use?
 
XMarlin said:
I have been considering that. I read a very good article on this issue and am very likely going to try and make a Single Point Ground setup. I have a brand new main harness and a brand new headlight harness I picked up from Fairspares and this article http://www.gabma.us/elec/proper_grounding.pdf covers the topic quite well.
I'd be very interested in hearing from anyone that has already done this modification as to where they selected the ground point. In the aviation world we usually polish a point where a stud will mount, and then stack the "grounds" on top of each other.
Click to expand...
When I redid my harness thats how I did it. I used two area for grounds. One is the headsteady bolt (which is already used for grounding). This picks up all the grounds from the front of the bike. From there I brought a # 12 wire back to a post by the podronics unit and added the grounds coming from the tailight rear brake etc . Then finally a #8 wire from that post to the battery. Basically all my grounds are returning to the battery via copper and not the frame.
 
I used my frame and original '69 harness and it's been working for me. I was careful to pick a few good spots though. Frame grounding can be done, just sayn', not that the single point isn't better.
 
many ways to skin mc looms. One thing that helps too is treat connections, bars swicthes to battery with the de-oxidizer-conduction contact improving fluids sold for this. Tried in on a 1950's flash light with dull yellow glow to get bright white-ish beam. Its does wear off it weather exposed so just redo now and then with a drop of fluid. The frame and such is plenty conductive enough to be low resistance conductor but for the connections to it that can oxidize.

An Introduction from a new owner
 
hobot said:
many ways to skin mc looms. One thing that helps too is treat connections, bars swicthes to battery with the de-oxidizer-conduction contact improving fluids sold for this. Tried in on a 1950's flash light with dull yellow glow to get bright white-ish beam. Its does wear off it weather exposed so just redo now and then with a drop of fluid. The frame and such is plenty conductive enough to be low resistance conductor but for the connections to it that can oxidize.

An Introduction from a new owner
Click to expand...

I'm using LPS3 extensively on this bike build but "...de-oxidizer-conduction contact improving fluids..." haven't much experience here. Any suggestions?
 
I also see a MKIII Kickstarter on that... a highly coveted and relatively expensive item ($US250). There are not too many copies. Most MKIII kickstarters are OEM and will easily clear them darn pesky exhaust pipes without hitting them and other annoying traits. If you ever want to add rear sets to her (not that you would on a HiRider mind) its a must..
OR...
you can sell it to me or swap for mine a MKII kickstarter in perfect shape for song my good man ... I do say..
:-)

-->FJ
 
hobot said:
You making fun of my lingo? Here's a search to scan on contact conduction improvers. Every little bit helps.
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&q ... 39&bih=600
Click to expand...


I live in Texas...so why make fun of your lingo? That would be like the pot calling the kettle black.

Contact cleaner is great but fretting and galvanic corrosion is the enemy on electrical connections. I think the solution is a moisture-displacing sealant of some sort that is also a good conductor of electricity.
 
The Olde POLARITY of the EARTH & the Errosion / Deposit bit has some relephants .

Zinc block wired in as per cathodeic thingo on yachts ( The Queems ' yacht ' Brittanica :lol: :x ) might do the trick .
as in sacrificial wotsit .
 
just a side note on the Sonny Angel thing. he is still around, I spent some time with him in May. he has aged rapidly since his wife died of cancer. he still goes to the shop most everyday but doesn't do much, mostly meet and greet and tell stories. his brother Don pretty much does all the work now.( Don is one of the pilots of the lambky liner, the twin engined vincent streamliner at bonneville) there may be records of your bike at the shop if they did the work, you can call and ask for Don. Sonny's intake manifold will be stamped with his name and numbered.
 
hobot said:
...treat connections, bars swicthes to battery with the de-oxidizer-conduction contact improving fluids sold for this. Its does wear off it weather exposed so just redo now and then with a drop of fluid.
Click to expand...
When I was wrenching on Mercury boat motors for a living, I used to cuss the goop that was covering every electrical connector in sight. In retrospect, I never once found any corroded connections that had this stuff on them. In that light, I went searching for the goop, and found it listed as "Liquid Electrical Tape". http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product ... &from=grid An apt description, as it's a liquid form of the same PVC material as what electrical tape is made of. Once you have a throughly clean surface, add any wires and screw together as normal, then smear this stuff all over the joint, making sure to run up onto the wire's insulation so as to stop the weather from sneaking in. Sure, it's a pain to remove, but I think you'll find you won't ever have to remove it, at least not for corrosion. Nathan
 
Nater_Potater said:
hobot said:
...treat connections, bars swicthes to battery with the de-oxidizer-conduction contact improving fluids sold for this. Its does wear off it weather exposed so just redo now and then with a drop of fluid.
Click to expand...
When I was wrenching on Mercury boat motors for a living, I used to cuss the goop that was covering every electrical connector in sight. In retrospect, I never once found any corroded connections that had this stuff on them. In that light, I went searching for the goop, and found it listed as "Liquid Electrical Tape". http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product ... &from=grid An apt description, as it's a liquid form of the same PVC material as what electrical tape is made of. Once you have a throughly clean surface, add any wires and screw together as normal, then smear this stuff all over the joint, making sure to run up onto the wire's insulation so as to stop the weather from sneaking in. Sure, it's a pain to remove, but I think you'll find you won't ever have to remove it, at least not for corrosion. Nathan
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you. I'll be ordering a tin of it. I'll post the results as they happen.
 
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