DT head steady slop

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acadian

acadian

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The perpendicular arm on my DT unit is showing signs of slop, I do oil the joint regularly so am chalking this up to wear and tear. I notice that RGM sells an "upgraded" arm, anybody have experience with this unit?
 
I did about 2000mls on the standard Taylor headsteady (with 5/16" ball joints) when an increasing rattling sound pointed me at the completely worn out ball joints. Note I didn't lubricate the open ball joints during that period of use. I doubt if the upgraded open ball joints last must longer. Currently I am very satisfied with the CNW/Comstock headsteady with sealed self lubricating heavy duty ball joints, downside: very expensive!
 
I ended up replacing both ends with joints sourced from Dorman Products. I got about 3000 miles out of the originals, and the Dorman stuff is the same quality so for the $20.00 it cost I'll just count on replacing it every few years.
 
I'm pretty sure mcmasters sells the sealed or protected heim joints in lots of sizes. But you'll have to figure out which one you need. But they're probably just dust seals and won't stop the wear.
 
Tie rod ends on small Japanese cars just dont wear out. Hint Hint. I have Ludwig style head steady's on both my commandos. No joints to wear out.

Dereck
 
Dereck
What is the Ludwig style steady?
Do you have any pics or could you provide a link?
I've looked elsewhere on the forum and found them mentioned but no photos/detailed description
Cheers
Rob
 
Well I'm not sure what RGM are using but the original rose joints fitted in 2001/2 are still doing fine on my Mk3 850. They've covered at the very least 25000 miles.

Dave
 
Ludwig's head steady is a version of the Production Racer head steady. I think Norvil sells something similar as well as Old Britts. Here's a picture of it.

DT head steady slop

I have his drawings and a little text he sent me about it.
 
DogT said:
Ludwig's head steady is a version of the Production Racer head steady. I think Norvil sells something similar as well as Old Britts. Here's a picture of it.

DT head steady slop

I have his drawings and a little text he sent me about it.
Click to expand...

Just ordered a set of replacement rose joints from a local bearing supplier, total cost = $15... we'll see how that works out
 
Thanks for that DogT

One for Jerry & L.A.B. - I found some pictures of these using Google Images. When you click on the picture it takes you to a thread here called Production Racer Head Steady Setup? but all the photos have the photo bucket disease,,,
However the photos are still recoverable by saving the image from Google - It may be valuable where the original posted pictures appear to be lost
These are the photos I recovered that I believe belong to that thread
Cheers
Rob

DT head steady slop

DT head steady slop

DT head steady slop

DT head steady slop

DT head steady slop
 
DogT said:
Ludwig's head steady is a version of the Production Racer head steady.
I have his drawings and a little text he sent me about it.
Click to expand...

Interesting :!: Much appreciated if you would share his drawings and text with us :?:
 
robs ss said:
One for Jerry & L.A.B. - I found some pictures of these using Google Images. When you click on the picture it takes you to a thread here called Production Racer Head Steady Setup? but all the photos have the photo bucket disease,,,
However the photos are still recoverable by saving the image from Google - It may be valuable where the original posted pictures appear to be lost
These are the photos I recovered that I believe belong to that thread
Click to expand...

It would be a heck of a job, and although I'm sure most members here wouldn't mind, copying other people's images without getting their permission would be a breach of copyright.
 
I suspect with photobucket (and others) you lose copyright as soon as you post
 
robs ss said:
I suspect with photobucket (and others) you lose copyright as soon as you post
Click to expand...

In the terms of use, it states;
Content & Privacy

You retain all your rights to any Content you submit, upload or display on or while using Photobucket. This means that you own all the Content you post and are responsible for its settings:
Click to expand...

But then goes on to say;
· When you make your Content public, you grant us a worldwide, non-exclusive, royalty-free, non-revocable, right and license to copy, sell, convey, distribute, stream, post, publicly display (e.g. post it elsewhere), reproduce and create derivative works from it (meaning things based on it), whether in print or any kind of electronic version that exists now or is later developed, for any purpose, including a commercial purpose with the right to sublicense such rights to others.

· By making your content public, you are also giving other Members on Photobucket the right to copy, distribute, publicly perform, publicly display, reproduce and create derivative works from it via the Site, third party websites or applications (for example, via services allowing Members to order prints of Content or t-shirts and similar items containing Content, and via social media websites), provided such use is not for a commercial purpose.
Click to expand...
 
I always figured anything I put on this interweb becomes compromised data, no matter the copyright. My wife was a pro photographer and she would find her stuff on the web all the time. Best she could do is threaten them, but unless you take legal action......

Here's the rest of what ludwig sent me. I suggest keeping them yourself if you want future access to them.


DT head steady slop



DT head steady slop



DT head steady slop



DT head steady slop



DT head steady slop



DT head steady slop

And this is what he had to say about it.

"I must admit I have no idea how big the side load can be , so I made it pretty strong : the vertical piece is 5 mm (3/16") thick steel , the base plate 4 mm .SS end washers are 4 mm . the hole part is fully 3 dimensional .
I mesured the amplitude of the vibration at the head : about 2 mm , so a clearance of 3-4 mm between spacer and eye is enough .
To ensure perfect alignement , the 2 parts are tack welded in situ .
Lateral movement is controlled by the length of the spacer . I set it at 0.10 mm (.004") . I only use 2 bolts on the head . On bolt 3 is a spring preset at 20 kg (44lbs?) to take the weight off the front iso"

and a link to the britbike column if it's still good.
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthrea ... 352&page=1
 
Thanks DogT for posting that info.
As far as I can see from Ludwigs drawings the central bolt (into the frame cross tube) is thicker than original 5/16" Is it neccesary to use a thicker 3/8" bolt or will the original size 5/16" bolt be strong enough so you can use the existing 5/16" thread in the cross tube :?: Maybe Kerinorton could chime in as he already uses this headsteady on both his Commandos :wink:
 
I had the dave taylor for about 7 years and compared to the stocker it was an immediate improvement in stability

although I had no problems with it I did buy the CNW head steady when it first came out simply because it looked much more robust
 
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