hylomar vs the world

I'm buying of my one sealant for everything till almost gasketless.

http://hylomar.com/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/t ... ing.71687/

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85249-Hy ... B0018PSATY

http://www.bigwrench1.com/HYLOMAR.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXiVZIBoHL0

http://www.ferrea.com/Hylomar-Universal ... ula/p34137

As an apprentice, we weren't allowed to use anything but a smear of grease on gaskets. Apart from waterpumps where we had to use Osotite.
Once I moved elsewhere, I was introduced to Hylomar, the original, with all the guff about being developed by Rolls Royce on the tube. Sometime later the aerosol appeared and life was transformed. A quick waft - never more - and your joint was made. After 30 years, the tin's empty, but only just.
Saw the new stuff, wondered too.
Worked at a place which chose Permatex. We only used various thread lockers, but it most often seemed to go off in the bottle, unlike the Loctite equivalent.

nickguzzi said:

As an apprentice, we weren't allowed to use anything but a smear of grease on gaskets.

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I used to until Loctite 515 came along and used that instead of grease, the new Loctite gel thread lockers are very user friendly also.

hobot said:

I'm buying of my one sealant for everything till almost gasketless.

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I'm very partial to Yamabond #4. It goes on slightly runny, allowing a thin coat to be applied, then thins out across the joint while drying, rather than setting-up in a big nasty bead like RTVs are inclined to do. Also, it's a light gray, so it's not so obvious against aluminum. Stolen from XS650.com "Before I started using Yamabond, I used Hylomar. It's a similar non-hardening type and works well." Those guys have similar questions to ours; http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17943
As for gasketless, I use the #4 more as a gasket dressing, so nothing to report that way. It might be worth it to you to drop a couple of fins to experience first hand. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121342160386?lpid=82 I see where there's many more variants available in the Yamabond line, so some more exploring to do.

Nathan

Real mechanics may sneer at me but I'm in the 'over' tighten it camp to seal more than mere sealant dependent - so getting stuff loose again matters as much to me as sealing. Most all other excellent proven sealants tend to glue parts together and in perfect fitting world just a smear of grease or even just dry gasket does the trick. I use Hylomar to 'glue' on TS gasket to cover and just grease on the case side as its removed fairly often and eventually the TS gasket-oil pump spacer decays so easier to clean cover than engine cases. I've done ~6 engine rebuilds and have used up tubes of WellSeal and Yamabond name range to see if used under barrel it hardens enough the vibes/expansion tend to crack it and little bits blow out till weeping no torque solves. I no longer use gaskets in tranny and only retain TS and head gaskets as clearance spacers, except in manifolds d/t heat isolation and 'lighter' torque to retain w/o distorting. Carb-manifold fasteners have bothered my rides many times in past and tired the loctite and non Hylomar sealers to find I almost couldn't get carb screws back off w/o chewing up the slots so tried Hylomar and works a treat ever more. I have shied away from the aerosol d/t over spray but sure appeals to apply snot like Hylomar that sticks to applicator as much as surface to seal. I use fingers, Q-tips and twigs and small stiff brushes.

Hylomar...So-So, Yamabond is 100% ..the Old Hylomar will easly scratch off with a finger nail.

Nater_Potater said:

hobot said:

I'm buying of my one sealant for everything till almost gasketless.

Click to expand...

I'm very partial to Yamabond #4. It goes on slightly runny, allowing a thin coat to be applied, then thins out across the joint while drying, rather than setting-up in a big nasty bead like RTVs are inclined to do. Also, it's a light gray, so it's not so obvious against aluminum. Stolen from XS650.com "Before I started using Yamabond, I used Hylomar. It's a similar non-hardening type and works well." Those guys have similar questions to ours; http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17943
As for gasketless, I use the #4 more as a gasket dressing, so nothing to report that way. It might be worth it to you to drop a couple of fins to experience first hand. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121342160386?lpid=82 I see where there's many more variants available in the Yamabond line, so some more exploring to do.

Nathan

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I've had great service from Wellseal - including successfully re-torqueing a joint which had started leaking due to the whole thing rattling loose on me (not a Norton).

Recently my 850 engine breather pipe came away from the PCV, and the engine sprung a major leak from the cylinder base :cry:
After 4 years of smug oil-tight riding, it happened at the local Vintage Bike show, where everyone was watching...
I'll try Yamabond this time... and a gasket!

Anhydrous lanolin makes for paper gaskets that seal but don't stick.

Old Hylomar will easly scratch off with a finger nail.

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Yep & a great part of its appeal to me. Another thing I like about Hylomar few have mentioned is the size gap it can straddle and seal uncompressed in case seams that tend to vibe apart like the area behind the barrel at least my Combats on cam. After some threshold of sealing ability its a mute point if many sealants are up to normal expected sealing. In my case I fear another gritty smoking misfiring ring blow by event in next 10K miles and don't want to take engine to crank to reseal the failed YamaHondaKawaSuziDuci3bond w/o thread in Trixie after remembering elastic cartoon engine Peel went though and stayed sealed with the blue snot + organic thread. May just be my superstitious rpm over load imprinting swaying my logic.

I used the Hylomar stuff on the crank flanges and since I changed from SAE50 to 20W50 I've got a pretty good leak. I guess I'm going to have to re-visit that flange. I didn't feel real good about it when I put it on, it was hard to work with or else I didn't understand how to use it.

Yamabond is very good, not the cheapest sealant about....but when cheaper are used and the engine needs comming back out...well the few dollars more is well with it...apply with a small brush ...i have used it a few months ago...on a crank case face...alls good! Highly recommended.

DogT said:

I used the Hylomar stuff on the crank flanges and since I changed from SAE50 to 20W50 I've got a pretty good leak. I guess I'm going to have to re-visit that flange. I didn't feel real good about it when I put it on, it was hard to work with or else I didn't understand how to use it.

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How in the world would one know if the crank shaft flanges leaked or not? Must be a type for cases not crank but many like me use loctite for those flats for the pure permanent solid glue effect. Everything is expensive on our obsessive obsolete hobby horses.

I haven't yet found a songle product that works for all applications.
These are the products I use:

Wellseal
it's is a non-set sealer (so will never go off)
It's great for rocker boxes, inspection covers etc.
I always paint my paper gaskets in Wellseal, and leave it to go tacky overnight before using them - it works a treat!
I wouldn't recommend it for crank case halves or anything else that will be immersed in oil

Loctite 5699 Premium Silicon Sealer
it sets up (but it remains a little flexible so won't go brittle and cracked out)
This is the stuff I use for the crank case - it is a nice grey colour (which is brilliant, as it blends in), so doesn't look terrible like blue hylomar or that horrible red shit.
The temperature resistance is good, which is another important consideration
It is also low cost, and sold in most car accessory stores!

For thread locking I use two types of Loctite:
Green 270 - for in-accessible things that need to be locked in
Purple 222 - low strength perfect as an anti-shake for things you want to undo (like panels and covers) This is the stuff I use most of!

Bearing retaining:
Loctite 620 - high strength, heat resistant. I use for gluing the bearings into the crank case etc...

Yup, Yamabond (Pliobond) for cases, seals effectively for several decades, comes apart when needed.

Loctite 518 for other gaskets (dressing) peels off like a sticky note, seals for real. Designed to be used AS a gasket itself, such as the '74 850 base joint.

xbacksideslider said:

Anhydrous lanolin makes for paper gaskets that seal but don't stick.

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Also good for assembly lube on valve stems back in the olden days. I used to use it for that, but later switched to Redline assembly lube.

Oh yes, I'm also a big Hylomar fan, and Locktite products too. Living better through chemistry.

Ken

hobot said:

How in the world would one know if the crank shaft flanges leaked or not?

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I should have said crank case flanges. I noticed right away when I started things up I had a slight leak around the bottom most engine stud. Now it's worse with the lighter oil.

Anyhow, I'm going to take the opportunity to re-visit the early timed breather, the camshaft oil trough, ala ludwig, and the timing cover oil level which I didn't do first time around because I was either in a rush or confused, likely both. But I'm not sure when, maybe this summer maybe this winter. Depends on my mood and how confused I am.

Anyhow, I'm going to take the opportunity to re-visit the early timed breather, the camshaft oil trough, ala ludwig, and the timing cover oil level which I didn't do first time around because I was either in a rush or confused, likely both. But I'm not sure when, maybe this summer maybe this winter. Depends on my mood and how confused I am.

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Dang DogT, that is exactly the content of my self conversation ~ all day long, I'm feeling fine, time on my hands weather nice, a lot of neat things to figure out and do but still wondering when I'll get in the mood and leave my comfort zone. I swear that was gonna be a subject line you can open, How in the world do ya keep getting back in the mood...

My priority is my Bore Tech mower, set back by them leaving valves out, so few days to find proper spring compressor from engine shop lent me instead of doing it there as we found valve seals in pieces, so instead cleaned up ports and did old hand job valve grinding till spun slick. Valve seals arrived a few days ago, just in time with chest high grass about to just fall over on its own. I'm leaving head gasket out for bit hi'r CR and will use JSM's copper wire and copper spray stuff at barrel base and head seal as even lugged down over heating grass clogged it don't warp or flap like a Norton can so Hylomar is over kill on it. I've never done a side valve flat head so may have to face I'm over my head again, so putting off chance of the downer mood to get past. Oh yeah I did get in mood to have shop slice off front of sloped mower deck so blades extend beyond deck and can slice grass off at the neck like hay cutters instead of just pushing it over missing most of it. I'm about always in a mowing mood on that zero turn antique. Ugh just remembered can't get the muffler configured for it so must make up 2-1 Peashooter system. Got rotten out peashooter still intact outside to use up.

h, if you want to talk about mowing grass, here's my field, but you're only seeing about 1/4 or less of it and the grass must be almost 4' tall this year. You can barely see the other side of the stream which is the bigger part. I went out the other day when it wasn't over 90 and mowed about 3 hours with the JD2020 and the 7' New Holland sickle bar. I couldn't believe how thick the stuff was, sometimes I had to get into 1st gear low range to keep from binding up the bar. It's been a year for grass. I can't keep up with the Simplicity Zero turn mower in the yard either, so I use the tractor in the yard.

You can see I've only cut about 1/2 or more if the immediate view and that's maybe 2 acres out of the open 20 we have.

I'm not much in the mood to mow like I used to be and the grass tends to get tall. The local farmer that was keeping Angus here is falling off the perch so I need to find someone else to help with the mowing/keep their cattle here.



As I get older, the mood tends to leave me, maybe I need some of that strange weed that I didn't get too much of in the 70's. The Margaritas and the vodka tonics don't do much but give me sleepless nights. I tend to stay away from it and eat fruits and vegs. The beans are doing great this year, I only plant French beans.

But I need to get back to that flange.

Nice view you have there Dog T. I googled your area and you have some pretty countryside surrounding you. That Skyline Drive to the west of you would be fun to drive on a Norton. Happy Mowing!

Actually the drive from my place up 688 past I66 to I17 near Paris is a nice ride, as well as from my place across Hume Road to 522, down to Flint Hill and back on Crest Hill to 688 and back home is a good 40 minute ride. If I ride week days, there's hardly ever any traffic too, which is good to me. You've seen this before I'm sure.

I haven't done the ride to Madison on 522, that's a nice long ride, but an hour each way. I'm not into putting hours on the road.



Speed limit on Skyline Drive is 25-35.

Dave
69S