Regarding using the AMC primary and installing a belt clutch:
I'm not the first to install a belt clutch inside the AMC primary by a long shot, but I have done it.
Kind of amazing that the stator is never out of alignment with the rotor on my P11 and I have had that cover off and back on at least 50 times.
With a 3/8" full perimeter spacer you can get a 25mm belt inside a P11, G15, N15 AMC primary. However a lot more needs to be done inside both the inner and outer cases to get clearance for both the belt and the basket. Also the foot pegs may require some imagineering. A 21mm belt is enough for most 750 engines used on the street. I do run a 25mm belt.
Once a belt is fit inside those cases it would be very difficult to go back to a wet clutch and expect the primary to hold oil and never drip. I'm sure it could be done, but a diaphragm sprung belt clutch is far better than a 3 spring AMC clutch. Getting a belt clutch in there is worth the commitment, but it will lower the value of your N/G 15.
I drilled a 5/8" diameter hole in the outer primary for strobing the timing. I mark the rotor and stator. I seldom use it though.
One other hack I did was run a 1/4-20 tap through the perimeter bolt holes and use longer 1/4-20 allen head bolts to hold the outer primary cover on with a 3/8" spacer in place. Surprising that the bolts actually hold and stay tight. The alignment dowels also have to be pulled out a little or replaced with longer dowels. Dowels may not be the right term, but if one isn't too anal it should be obvious what I am talking about.
Side note: The gearbox on a P11 can be moved quite a way back, so if the N/G have a similar gearbox adjustment getting a modified Commando primary on might not be that difficult. I thought about it, but wanted to keep the AMC case look.