New member questions.

Thanks Dennis. Thankfully, I have a supply of drip pans for the Brit bikes and Harleys. It’s when they don’t drip oil that you worry about them.
 
Find the little Riders Manual for your year also (besides the workshop manual). This gives all the basic maintenance and riding info with photos and line drawings that really help a new Norton owner.
 
Thanks Batrider. I do have the riders manual bookmarked and it is helpful. Another rookie question. The Cush drive buffers were missing or totally deteriorated. The parts book shows a thick and thin buffer. I ordered a thick set but while it is unclear it may be that the thin set is also required. Also I can’t find any illustrations that show how to install them. Thanks in advance.
 
FL54 said:
ordered a thick set but while it is unclear it may be that the thin set is also required.
Click to expand...

Yes, you need both sets. They fit as they are drawn on the parts diagram with the thick ones resisting the drive.

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk andover-norton.co.uk
 
Thanks LAB. Diagram was unclear to me but now I see what appears to be the thick one leading in direction of rotation. Am I reading that correctly?
 
FL54 said:
Thanks LAB.
Click to expand...
When re-fitting rear wheel, be sure to follow best guidance and keep the torque to 45-60 ft-lbs...this is plenty for holding the wheel and seems to help keep the speedo drive housing from deforming and machining a groove in the right side hub cover plate...which leads to drive getting hot, melting the grease inside the drive and having it ooze out over the hub cover...making the "Black Star of Death" pattern....
 
Thanks for the advice Tornado. Waiting on buffers, tires and drive chain before reassembling the rear wheel. Replacing oil lines and refitting oil tank. I was surprised that the tank was relatively clean except for a 1/4” sludge down by the filter which was clean. Hopefully, that means that previous ownership was good about changing oil.
 
It appears that someone in the past had plugged the chain oiler. What are the thoughts about this? On the old Harleys, there is an adjustment screw on the oil pump to regulate the amount of oil to the chain oiler. Most folks turn those off and lubricate the chain by hand.
 
Thanks Dennis. That’s what I thought but always good to get confirmation. Many years ago after a 100 mile ride on my Panhead with my girlfriend (now wife) , she had a nice stripe of oil on her back. Needless to say, that didn’t go over well.
 
FL54 said:
It appears that someone in the past had plugged the chain oiler. What are the thoughts about this? On the old Harleys, there is an adjustment screw on the oil pump to regulate the amount of oil to the chain oiler. Most folks turn those off and lubricate the chain by hand.
Click to expand...
Have never come across a commando in the wild with original chain oiler still in use. If you deem them important, get a modern type such as Scottoiler or Tutoro...these limit oil flow via a vacuum or vibration operated valve.
 
I have always used the original chain oiler. The felt needs cleaning/replacing periodically as it clogs up with solids in the engine oil but it must be remembered that the original Commandos had the most effective chain guard.
 
The tube from the tank to the oiler is a clear type of plastic. I replaced mine as it was cracked and leaking.
I suggest you consider replacing your because the feed tube from the tank to the plastic tube is always willed with oil that the scavenge pump is retuning to the tank so if the clear plastic tube cracks, it has unlimited oil supply to leak.
Pretty soon we will have you replacing everything!!
dennis
 
I'm still using the original chain oiler (54 years in the wild) but I've added a brass fish tank air valve to control (limit) oil flow. This idea came from ancient Norton News.
 
this thread has been useful to me, also being a new owner of my first Commando. '72 750. Have always wanted one. The PO is a friend who had it for 50 years so I'm lucky there. But it sat for 10 years. He parked it a few thousand miles after a pretty decent restoration. After oil and filter change, a new battery and an carb o-ring refresh I was able to start it and spin around the block. Ran pretty well after I played with the carbs. I'm at 6k' elevation (Tahoe) and the bike came from sea level so needed to drop the needles and adjust idle mixture. Next step is to replace primary and tranny fluid and check valve adjustments. Plus left exhaust looks like it was leaking. misc stuff. Got a new steel tank that'll go off for painting soon. I've become enamored with CNW so ordered single carb kit, trispark and coils. While I enjoy working on bikes, these upgrades seem likely to provide a smooth rider that's easy to start for my 70+ year old legs. Anyways, love the forum and will go look for manuals now that I've paid my dues. Cheers!
Paul
 
Just recieve a manual on Magnetic speedo and tack repair for Smiths clocks authored by Graham Blighe very informative. a little pricey available Lulu.com
Thank You Forum
 
DennisMo said:
I think plugged oiler is good. I spray dry-lube onto my chain.
Dennis
Click to expand...
Yes , seal up the chain oiler . You can crimp up the short little spout and have it brazed up tight . Or you can put in a tight metal bolt with a solid glue like JB weld . Or you can fit a short new piece of hose to it that ends in a plug .
I lube my chain with gearbox thick oil , not 20 W 50 .
Jason the Chain Man sells the best IWIS chains .
 

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