Cozy sidecar on a Triumph T-Bird triple

[grandpaul]

I got my Cozy back recently, after the passing of my long-time friend Howard "Shotgun" Winchester, whom I had loaned it to so that he could keep riding after his 2nd open-heart surgery. His doc said "no more two-wheelers", and I wasn't using it since I sold the 'Guzzi. At least he got to stay in the wind a few more years.

Anyway, I got to thinking, that free BlackBird ain't doin' nuthin' sitting there, WHY NOT?! These will be the main mounting points... (the lowest one is the centerstand mount hole behind the pipes-

First order of business was to design a sub-frame to take some of the stress off the already stressed-member engine.

Done!

So, it should look something like this... The hub with 4 holes just at the exhaust pipe lower bend is the main extendable tub mount, and with the rear wheel of the bike 8" behind the tub wheel, the center hole lines up very nearly exactly with the oil sight glass on the bike.

Time to start ordering a few lengths of pipe, and some steel plate. I already ordered a mounting kit, the old mounts on the Cozy are kinda wimpy

 

[grandpaul]

Revised subframe, pipe materials ordered, linkage stuff already arrived...

 

[grandpaul]

I'll need to wait on welding up a couple of subframe sections until I have the main bits fastened to the bike.

Whatever left side sections can all be "dropped" in place along with the right side (connected by crossovers) and the bike simply backed out of the way, those bits can be welded up.

There will be one crossover pipe that may or may not "make the cut"- it will have to go thru right where the horn is on the left side; if the space is cleared by removing the horn with it's mount, it's a "go" and most of the frame will be one welded up assembly with 2 bolted up crossovers to the left (shorter) half

Thusly (more or less)... The bits shown as dashed lines are the "possibles".

 

[grandpaul]

Lots of moving parts around here... I'll keep it simple.

I mocked up the basic subframe using the thinnest lumber I could find; actual steel pipe will fit better.

Never mind the slight misalignments, once the steel pipe is in place, there will be at least 1/4" clearance to ANYTHING on the engine, nor the exhaust pipes down below.

I dropped the extended links back to the pillion pegs, too much interference.

The main sidecar 4-bolt "hub" will fit up to a steel plate, with the center of the hub aligning almost exactly with the oil sightglass (pure coincidence)

 

[grandpaul]

The lower mounts where the centerstand used to be, will use the centerstand stop plates, but with sleeves welded on for the mounting bolts to the subframe...

Like this (sort of)

Since I still have lots of spare parts, I did a simple fitting-up without working under the bike...

 

[grandpaul]

So, the subframe is getting pretty close to finalized...

(A) will be a long thru bolt, under the carbs, in a thin steel pipe, (B) will actually be a Nyloc nut. (it fits after all).

Bolts 2 & 4 will actually become the one long bolt thru the centerstand mounts (in sketch) with the short welded up pipe extensions.

Bolts 5 & 3 bolt up to the frame rops at the top/front engine mounts.

Bolts 7 & 8, and long bolt (A) will easily remove the left side in order to drop the main subframe off the bike (in future)

I know, I know, it's not an actual 3-D drawing, some bits look flat, some round. They are all 1" steel pipe except the two tabs at the lower left which are 1/4" steel plate.

 

[grandpaul]

Quick test-fit of 3 of the 4 adjustable pivot links, still some re-fitting to do for best triangulation with the 4th one.

The rearmost link will go nearer the end to the frame main top rail, just past the seat mount crossover plate, not where it's test fitted just behind the brake reservoir. It's in the way of a potential pillion's right leg/foot where it's at right now.

 

[grandpaul]

Narrowing down the design, the top rear crossover (shown (A) & (B) will actually be a single, sleeved thru-bolt under the carbs.

The lower rear tabs will point UPWARDS. Those connections (2) & (4) will also be a single thru-bolt with spacers.

All joints will be pre-fab welded unions, no need to round-cut every pipe and weld butt joints.

 

[grandpaul]

I'm going to design and build a leading front axle setup, sort of like this one...

 

[grandpaul]

Here's the "semi-final" isometric SKETCH (not an accurate 3-D engineering drawing)

I'll be doing a mockup in PVC pipe tomorrow BEFORE cutting and welding any steel pipe.

 

[Saber]

Nice isometric sketch. I remember doing those in high school with the 30-60-90 triangle.

 

[grandpaul]

Nice isometric sketch. I remember doing those in high school with the 30-60-90 triangle.

Triangle? TRIANGLE?!?!?

We don't need no stinking TRIANGLE!

 

[grandpaul]

Lots to catch up on!

I wasted time and a few pennies building a wooden mockup (1"x1-1/2"), but at least it let me see where the potential tight spots were at the engine, foot controls, exhaust pipes, etc. It also turned on the very dim light bulb in my head and I repeated the exercise much more effectively with 3/4" PVC pipe which has the same diameter as 1" DOM steel tube.

It felt wooden...

MUCH more effective!

The above 3 photos are all you need to see from 20+ photos of a study that took 4 days including updating the AutoCAD drawings/sketches...

This is the final design, with the "Chuck Tail" to happen only if it feels the least bit unstable in toe adjustment; I will only build it up to what is labeled "T(4)", then mount, trim & test the sidecar. if it feels at all wiggly, I'll add the tail (probably unnecessary).

 

[grandpaul]

(this was last wednesday)

Some days you have to do "A" before you can do "B", and then you have to do "C" before you can actually do the thing you want/need to do.

Today was one of those days.

First, I had to move my cement mixer and old BBQ grille to make space to scoot my boat over.

Then, I scooted the boat over to make room for my box trailer.

Next, I put the box trailer under the shed roof so that it would block the wind that blows thru the spot where I want to set up my drilling & welding station.

Then, I set up my drill press by screwing it to the trailer tongue.

Next, I had to disconnect the upstairs water heater to use that breaker for my arc welder pigtail.

Then, I made a pigtail for the arc welder, and connected it to the breaker. It "just so happened" I had a nice chunk of 50A cable (already had the outlet in a make-up box, too).

Once I connected everything and sorted it out, the ground clamp just reached to my steel hardware store dolly that will be my welding table. Also, the welding lead reaches anywhere in my welding area which is formed by standing up an old spa cover that I KNEW I could re-purpose some day!

Last order of business was to get out my radial arm saw, change the wood blade to a metal cutting blade, and set it up on the end of the welding table.

FINALLY, I drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of a steel 90 degree elbow, to make sure it would work as planned. It did.

So, all in all, I drilled the first hole for my sidecar subframe project. It only took 6 hours!

 

[grandpaul]

Oh, yeah, I also "converted" my carpenter's square to a pipefitters square...

Before (it can't go into the corner)

After - Works like a champ!

(I must remember to buy a new square before my next construction mission trip)

Wonderful "extra steps" will now be required in fitting up the frame parts before welding - all of the "T" fittings' main end openings are 1/16" TOO SMALL FOR THE PIPE! I ordered a 1" bit to ream them. Weird the top openings of all the Ts are the correct size. They were ordered 1x1x1

Elbows are about 1/32" too BIG, but that's an easy fix with simply jigging the parts square on the welding table before tack welding. I've got a 5-gallon bucket full of Vice-Grip welding clamps, it'll be easy as pie.

 

[grandpaul]

Today was "actual work" day.

After taking down the right side PVC mockup and starting to copy it in steel, I realized I goofed on one of the cuts, but it still worked out for the left side

Drilled the two top/front elbows that bolt-up to the bike's frame where the top front of the engine is "sandwiched". These take 2 new bolts, a little over 2" longer (width of elbow + new spacer & washer)

Cut my first "saddle" freehand; not too shabby. I decided it's less welding than using a "T" (although there will still be 1 or 2 Tees)

Second freehand cut is decent. That'll do.

Yep. it's square.

Sorry about the shadows, sun was gettin' down.

Still square, ready to start welding...

(never mind the alignment of the elbow at the top right, I was only squaring up one joint at time, tack welding, test fitting, then on to the next fitting)

 

[grandpaul]

(Friday)

I'm not going to show close-ups of my welds. It's been 3 years since I welded anything significant, and it was 6 years before that that I welded more than 4 or 6" of beads total.

Yes, I will be "dressing" the welds before powdercoat. Overall, I'm satisfied with the left side. The right side will be cleaner.

Fits nice and reasonably square/level/plumb.

6 hours from when I arrived at the ranch, till the time I left.

That included 1/2 hour to eat lunch, and at least that long to set up the equipment before working, then to put it all away again.

4 fittings drilled out to nominal 1", 8 pipe cuts, 2 plate cuts, 12 welds, 3 holes drilled. Not professional level, but not horrible.

The right side will go quicker now that I have the workstations sorted and the main pieces measured accurately.

Thankfully, my welding helmet is a good "auto" type, and my already irritated eyes (botched laser cataract removal / lens replacement surgery) aren't worse from the little bit of welding.

The pipe & fittings are high grade stuff, expensive, overkill. NOT Home Depot hobby pipe. They came with materials spec & test sheets, over $15 per fitting. I wouldn't be able to deform one of those elbows with 5x the torque that those Fasteners take. As it is, I'll be using 3 clamps to the bike's actual frame, so the whole thing is an exercise in overkill. The entire left side is just additional insurance.

Yes, I fitted up, tacked, checked, then welded, between EACH PIECE. It was a heck of a lot of back and forth! I don't like welding inside my shop, and especially not on the bike.

I have more than enough fittings; by golly, I'm going to drill an extra one, bolt thru it, and whip out my trusty Craftsman torque wrenches and do a "dual wrench" test using the beam type and the clicker type. I'm going to torque them till I manage to deform one, and then note the torque figures. "Just for future discussions"...

PS - the listed torque for the engine mounts that I'm engaging is only 45 ft/lbs. I'm taking these tests to 100 "and beyond".

I'll measure with a decent quality steel caliper to measure any deformity, and backing it up with my digital scale.

I may, or may not, get out to the ranch today to build the right side...