1974 mk2 clutch issues

They look pretty good so a good clean and also use ATF oil to lube your primary chain and no more than 7floz s all that is needed, using motor oil will cause the clutch to stick and gum up over time, ATF doesn't cause that I been running ATF oil in my primary for over 40 years now and I am still running the original bronze and steel plates with over 160k mile on then since I brought my Norton new back in 76 it's also a 74 850 and if the clutch is adjusted right they won't slip at all, my clutch is also a one finger pull if I want too, is a very light feel.

Ashley
 
Got er done. The outer clutch plates were really gummed up bad...so its no wonder I had issues. There was engine oil in the primary and now has atf. On the stand in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in the wheel now turns freely by hand, couldnt do that before. Makes me wonder if gummed up plates are a common issue when motor oil is in the primary? Is cleaning up the plates something that has to be done every couple of years with motor oil being used? Thanx guys for your tips and suggestions..appreciate it!
 
Got er done. The outer clutch plates were really gummed up bad...so its no wonder I had issues. There was engine oil in the primary and now has atf. On the stand in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in the wheel now turns freely by hand, couldnt do that before. Makes me wonder if gummed up plates are a common issue when motor oil is in the primary? Is cleaning up the plates something that has to be done every couple of years with motor oil being used? Thanx guys for your tips and suggestions..appreciate it!
Gearbox oil can creep along the pushrod and reach the clutch plates. Book says to grease the rod to help slow that. Better fix is to fit the rod seal device...i believe it is available on AN webstore.
 
I still have the original bronze plates in mine, since 1980's I have cleaned them once. At the same time I adjusted the stack height, featherlight clutch cable to go one finger lift. I had to adjust the stack height once more as the clutch was slipping on test ride but the easy lift was retained.

 
My Norton clutch has always been light from day one of buying it new, have never changed the stack height all original from the factory, maybe I do have a freak Norton as so many have so much troubles with their clutches, I also find the stock bronze and steel plates work so well and my clutch copped a lot of abuse in my younger days.
I have ran the stock plates with a dry belt drive, they did bite a bit quicker running dry but I got use to it ran a belt for about 4 years before going back to chain drive, had a few problems with the belt, never had any problems running a chain.

Ashley
 
My Norton clutch has always been light from day one of buying it new, have never changed the stack height all original from the factory, maybe I do have a freak Norton as so many have so much troubles with their clutches, I also find the stock bronze and steel plates work so well and my clutch copped a lot of abuse in my younger days.
I have ran the stock plates with a dry belt drive, they did bite a bit quicker running dry but I got use to it ran a belt for about 4 years before going back to chain drive, had a few problems with the belt, never had any problems running a chain.

Ashley
According to Dynodave's testing & research they varied quite a lot.
That why his works involve measuring existing plate stack AND measuring the pressure plate. I ended up machining a significant amount off my pressure plate. (Thin plates were not yet readily available)


Refer to kommando's post number 27, and the hyperlink therein.

So, Ash, it looks like you got a good one right out of the box.🏁
 
Gearbox oil can creep along the pushrod and reach the clutch plates. Book says to grease the rod to help slow that. Better fix is to fit the rod seal device...i believe it is available on AN webstore.
Yes it can. Couple other items.
1. Don't overfill the gear box.
2. Store the bike straight up, not leaning left.
3. ATF helps to clean the plates.
 
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