Frankenbike

I ride fairly agressivelly on windy country roads and regularly get +2.5" of travel on my front forks, as measured with a small cable tie around the stanchion.

So, i would be doing the mock up to allow at minimum of 3" travel. IMHO...

Edit: 3" from both wheels on ground, no rider.
 
Here’s before and after pictures and you can see how much I raised it.

Frankenbike


Frankenbike
 
gortnipper said:
I ride fairly agressivelly on windy country roads and regularly get +2.5" of travel on my front forks, as measured with a small cable tie around the stanchion.

So, i would be doing the mock up to allow at minimum of 3" travel. IMHO...

Edit: 3" from both wheels on ground, no rider.
Click to expand...
GREAT information and will check in the morning. Much appreciated!
 
It doesnt look like much clearance with the wheel turned, which i would guess is to Nigels point about the fairing lowers hugging the downtubes.
 
gortnipper said:
It doesnt look like much clearance with the wheel turned, which i would guess is to Nigels point about the fairing lowers hugging the downtubes.
Click to expand...

Yes, if you look at the pics I posted of the same faring they are definitely mounted further back.

I would be investigating the option of different switchgear and levers to get the shortest possible clip ons and thus allow the fairing to be moved back. Might take a bit more effort, but well worth it in the long run IMHO.

I personally like my clip ons short, I binned the stock handle bar hardware and got mine quite short. I reckon a similar endeavour is required for the GK fairing ...

@ Norcoastal... I dunno about anyone else, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of these farings in use. It’s far better looking than the JPN fairing with the closer headlights and Perspex screen, actually it’s quite ahead of its time I think. You gonna have a rather cool bike by the time you’ve done I reckon.

Carry on...


FWIW, here’s my effort at short clip ons (the clip ons are alloy, from Andy Molnar, and nicely made):
289F742D-430D-4396-BCEE-41A6A36F1A63.jpegDD812E01-CD9E-43DE-AB7D-5AA3169EC7FA.jpeg
 
Last edited:
You DEFINITELY need to accommodate the front wheel/fender/forks turning lock-to-lock at full compression, too. You can check by removing the fork caps and let the forks bottom out by gravity, then simply flop them lock-to-lock.

The factory JPN fairing and tank cowl automatically set the position; it will ONLY go on ONE WAY.
 
grandpaul said:
You DEFINITELY need to accommodate the front wheel/fender/forks turning lock-to-lock at full compression, too. You can check by removing the fork caps and let the forks bottom out by gravity, then simply flop them lock-to-lock.

The factory JPN fairing and tank cowl automatically set the position; it will ONLY go on ONE WAY.
Click to expand...
Yes I agree. I have lock to lock but still need to check full compression. I don’t have a lot of flexibility with the position. A few inches here and there. It pretty much dictates where it goes. It fits very snugly. Like you said, the JPN fairing connects to the tank so there are no options of where the fairing fits, this has more flex but very limited. I think now that I’ve raised it 2-3 inches, it fits much better. The side brackets that were made for the proddy racer connect the bottom of the sides like it was makes for it. I’m pretty happy about that. I bought new side fairing brackets from AN.
 
I’m still going to have the tank and fender painted professionally. I just figured, why have primer when I can paint it white and see how it looks.

When the engine and trans are all done and I’m on the finishing touches, I’ll have them done the right way. This just makes it more fun for me.
 
There are many whites and this is just a mock up, I painted the tank and fender just because it makes me happy.

It looks like appliance white when compared to the faded fiberglass, but it’s better than primer! I love how this is coming out!

I decided to send the gear box out to Greg Marsh to have it professionally serviced. Last thing I need is a gear hanging up at 100 mph!

Frankenbike
private image hosting
 
Last but not least is the engine. I have the matching number engine cases and the inner and outer primary covers. I have manifolds and carbs.

What I’m missing are all of the internals, jugs and cylinder head.

I see lots of 750 engine parts on fleabay but not too many 850 internals...

The search continues!
 
I would hold out for a complete, known good engine. You will spend less in the end, I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE!!!

Maybe a wrecked bike...
 
grandpaul said:
I would hold out for a complete, known good engine. You will spend less in the end, I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE!!!
Maybe a wrecked bike...
Click to expand...

But then you wouldn't be able to fit the JS longer rods and light weight pistons , not to mention one of his cams and BSA style followers etc... :) I know , I know, it's not my money but what the heck,,,I'm just sayin'
 
cjandme said:
But then you wouldn't be able to fit the JS longer rods and light weight pistons , not to mention one of his cams and BSA style followers etc...
Click to expand...
NOT SO!

You can put that stuff on ANY engine. Starting with a COMPLETE engine means you don't also have to buy all the little bits and bobs, nuts and bolts, etc., that you will end up spending MUCH more on...
 
Boy have I done this entire bike the wrong way. If I were to do it again I’d buy a complete bike. You’re right, that’s the way to do it. I started with a bare frame and engine cases. I have bought every little piece that needed to be bought. I could have bought a complete bike with what I’ve spent so far.

Live and learn I guess.

Compleye engines are hard to find and when you find one, they’re expensive.

I’ll just keep searching, somethings bound to come up.
 

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