What year/model? What am I missing?

macvittiemotorcycles said:

Good to know. Thank you. Let me know if you find the drawing, ill do some searching.

My early cradle doesn't have oil filter holes as the early models did not have an oil filter (at least thats my understanding, this is my first Norton)

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Is this the drawing you're referring to for the center stand hole? SO I would reference this for drilling

Not a good drawing. There should be one datum point, ideally center of S/A pivot. Neither second bolt hole for the filter nor center stand mounting have defined X coordinates. This should be added.
X and Y coordinates from datum point to the tube for the Isolastic mounting needs to be specified as it defines the coordinate axes. Engine bolt holes at cradle should not be used for referencing as they may become oval.

- Knut

What exactly are Kegler clamps and how do they help? Where to purchase?

It's just a collar with the with the ID the same as the OD on the spindle shaft. I ordered the one with the flat, as I thought it was easier to drill the set screw. I got them from Mcmastercarr , sorry I don't remember the part number.

The essence of the need for the Kegler clamps for early bikes (like my '70) comes from the early design only having a single center bolt holding the swingarm axle in the tube of the cradle. It doesn't take long for the lateral forces on the wheel to deform the cradle tube, so even though the bushings where the swingarm pivots is tight, the play develops in the axle tube and the bike feels like a snake going down the road. I had this handling issue and chased it for probably a decade. When a certain Norton devotee used to tell me how a commando out handled bikes of it's era easily, I just thought he was full of shit. He had no clue about how the early model swingarm tube deformed and no clue about the repair solution and so I remained in the dark and rode my "snake bike" and just lived with the wiggle.

Eventually, I found this website and saw the diagnosis and the cure. My bike handles great now. LIke Nortster, I made my Kegler clamps by modifying a set of clamps from the Mcmaster-Carr supply company, but you can buy them ready to go from NYC norton now. You still have to drill the swingarm tube for the set screw and I also dimpled the axle ever so slightly to cradle the set screw,... but don't drill it too deep. (OR you can get the late model swingarm axle which has a flat machined on them and line the clamp installation with the 2 flats on the axle...

Finally had time to crack the cases.

Camshaft is shot as another member mentioned earlier. Are all camshafts the same for 750s and 850s or does my year engine require a “combat” camshaft?

No, your 1970 model would not have had a Combat camshaft originally. The 1970 camshaft would have been the end breather type.

L.A.B. said:

No, your 1970 model would not have had a Combat camshaft originally. The 1970 camshaft would have been the end breather type.

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Thanks. The breather type has the spring in one end and the spacer in the other correct?

macvittiemotorcycles said:

The breather type has the spring in one end and the spacer in the other correct

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Spring and breather plate.
If you mean the thrust washer at the other end then yes.

crank has also seen better days but I think a balancing at a machine shop would clean it up

macvittiemotorcycles said:

crank has also seen better days but I think a balancing at a machine shop would clean it up

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If the journals are good, then a cleaning is all you need. Of course, you can have it balanced but there's not a lot of reason to do so for a street bike. You do need to separate and clean it out since you probably have no oil filter and therefore have sludge inside. To do that you need a new stud/nut set.

marshg246 said:

If the journals are good, then a cleaning is all you need. Of course, you can have it balanced but there's not a lot of reason to do so for a street bike. You do need to separate and clean it out since you probably have no oil filter and therefore have sludge inside. To do that you need a new stud/nut set.

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Forgot to mention - be sure to mark it so it goes back together the same way - if the flywheel (center) is reversed the balance will be wrong.

Also, incase you don't know, you can reuse the conrod bolts but must use new nuts.

At this point I’m trying to consider what I can get away with reusing and what to replace.

As I look for a cam replacement- Any experience with Hepolite cams?

Inspecting the crank and rods. Crank journals look good. Rod bearings look ok? What do you think.

The rods themselves are ok with slight surface scratching throughout. Ok to use?

Oil feed and return piece. Is this pipe supposed to be able to come out of the body?

Might as well change the cam bushings while it’s apart? Tricks to getting this removed? I had heated up the cases in the BBQ to quite hot for 40 minutes and the outer bearing races fell out but the bushings didn’t budge.

More pictures

macvittiemotorcycles said:

At this point I’m trying to consider what I can get away with reusing and what to replace.

As I look for a cam replacement- Any experience with Hepolite cams?

Norton Commando Replacement Camshafts (1) - Choose Camshaft Type

Replace your old and worn camshaft with this new part manufactured by Andover Norton. Replaces part number 06-1084 for 750 and 850 Norton Commandos from 1969-75.

www.classicbritishspares.com

Inspecting the crank and rods. Crank journals look good. Rod bearings look ok? What do you think.

The rods themselves are ok with slight surface scratching throughout. Ok to use?

Oil feed and return piece. Is this pipe supposed to be able to come out of the body?

Might as well change the cam bushings while it’s apart? Tricks to getting this removed? I had heated up the cases in the BBQ to quite hot for 40 minutes and the outer bearing races fell out but the bushings didn’t budge.

Click to expand...

macvittiemotorcycles said:

At this point I’m trying to consider what I can get away with reusing and what to replace.

As I look for a cam replacement- Any experience with Hepolite cams?

Norton Commando Replacement Camshafts (1) - Choose Camshaft Type

Replace your old and worn camshaft with this new part manufactured by Andover Norton. Replaces part number 06-1084 for 750 and 850 Norton Commandos from 1969-75.

www.classicbritishspares.com

Inspecting the crank and rods. Crank journals look good. Rod bearings look ok? What do you think.

The rods themselves are ok with slight surface scratching throughout. Ok to use?

Oil feed and return piece. Is this pipe supposed to be able to come out of the body?

Might as well change the cam bushings while it’s apart? Tricks to getting this removed? I had heated up the cases in the BBQ to quite hot for 40 minutes and the outer bearing races fell out but the bushings didn’t budge.

Click to expand...

You're joking, right?




If you're NOT joking, (with no disrespect intended) you are way in over your head.

macvittiemotorcycles said:

At this point I’m trying to consider what I can get away with reusing and what to replace.

As I look for a cam replacement- Any experience with Hepolite cams?

Norton Commando Replacement Camshafts (1) - Choose Camshaft Type

Replace your old and worn camshaft with this new part manufactured by Andover Norton. Replaces part number 06-1084 for 750 and 850 Norton Commandos from 1969-75.

www.classicbritishspares.com

Inspecting the crank and rods. Crank journals look good. Rod bearings look ok? What do you think.

The rods themselves are ok with slight surface scratching throughout. Ok to use?

Oil feed and return piece. Is this pipe supposed to be able to come out of the body?

Might as well change the cam bushings while it’s apart? Tricks to getting this removed? I had heated up the cases in the BBQ to quite hot for 40 minutes and the outer bearing races fell out but the bushings didn’t budge.

Click to expand...

I always change the big end shell - they are not expensive.

The conrads are fine - polish out the scratches.

Only change the drive side cam bushing if is definitely bad - not easy to do! If you change the timing side, use the MKIII type 06.5428 (two required). Be prepared to hone them. They come as the right size but installing can slightly mushroom them and they don't always align perfectly and bind the cam.

Unless someone asks for something else. I always use Hepolite chilled cast iron cams. IMHO, the price you found is over $100 too much.

The oil junction block needs to be silver soldered .
If you have the capability you need to check the crank journals with a micrometer for ovality.

concours said:

You're joking, right?


View attachment 118619

If you're NOT joking, (with no disrespect intended) you are way in over your head.

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First Norton. Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it was a but the shell is smooth. Just minor discoloration from the crank sitting in the same position for 20 years. If you could provide a helpful comment that would be appreciated.